The following recommendations will help you achieve a healthy, vigorous lawn:

FERTILIZATION It is important to remember that fertilization is critical to a healthy lawn. Even though the soil contains some nutrients, there are not enough to maintain a healthy vigorous lawn. The essential nutrients provided by fertilization are nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. Nitrogen increases the growth rate of roots and shoots of the turf grass growth and development. It assures rapid establishment and stimulates root growth. A deficiency of phosphorous causes a reduction in the tiller to shoot growth and moisture content of the grass plant. This nutrient is required at much less of a rate than that of nitrogen and potassium. Potassium increases root development, particularly branching. It also improves heat, cold and drought hardiness as well as resistance to disease. As you can see, fertilizing your lawn is important. A typical lawn can be fertilized 3 to 5 times a season as long as the recommended rates (found on the directions on the bag) are followed. To assure a healthy, vigorous lawn apply approximately one pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet per application. A pre-emergent weed killer can be applied in the spring with fertilizer to help prevent weeds. A post-emergent weed killer can be applied in the late spring for broadleaf weeds such as dandelions that are visible. Lastly, unless you intend to water your lawn, fertilizing should be a discrete practice. Too much fertilizing can be just as harmful as not enough. Your local garden center can help you determine your lawns’ needs as can the cooperative extension services.

MOWING Mow the turf weekly or as needed such that no more than 1/3 of the grass blade is being cut off at each mowing. Mow to a height of 2 ½” – 3”. It is important that the blades of the mower be sharpened regularly.

DETHATCHING Dethatching is a practice used to aid in the removal of dead material on older established lawns. ½” of thatch is considered good for insulation and retention of moisture. More than 1” is more than needed and tends to encourage insect and disease problems. Dethatching is traumatic to grass plants. Core aeration is less traumatic and helps break down thatch as well.

CORE AERATION This is a most beneficial cultural practice to consider one or two years after the lawn is established. Due to firm subsoils, which are found in the Midwest, helps in creating an avenue for oxygen, water, nutrients, and microorganisms to aid the lawn in the development of a deep and vigorous root system. Recommended highly for sodded areas at least every two years. To assure the highest quality lawn, it is advisable to core aerate every fall prior to a fall fertilization. Do not remove the soil cores, allow them to break down and deteriorate back into the turf.

WATERING YOUR LAWN Proper watering is important for a healthy, vigorous lawn. It ensures your lawn will get the maximum benefit of the fertilizer program you choose. Watering is needed when Mother Nature fails to supply enough water through rainfall. Light rains or short downpours are not enough because the soil isn’t soaked deeply enough. Deep soaking is important because it encourages the development of a deep root system. A deep root system has a greater supply of water to draw from and is healthier. A lawn watered lightly tends to develop a shallow root system, resulting in a weaker drought-prone lawn.

If watering is inadequate the result is: • Off-colored or yellow grass • Thinner grass, with weed invasion • Increased disease and insects • Increased damage from winter injury and other stresses

The key to watering your lawn is to water enough to soak the root system thoroughly. In most cases an inch to an inch and one-half (1 – 1 ½”) is needed weekly. To determine if you’re getting the right amount of water you can measure the amount of water by placing a can under the spray of water from your sprinkler. Make sure you don’t water too fast, if water puddles or runs off certain areas, adjust the flow. There are some special situations you need to be aware of, i.e. slopes, and excessive thatch. These require slow watering to penetrate the soil and thatch layers. Newly seeded areas need one deep watering, and then water as needed to keep the soil damp. You don’t want new seedlings to dry out, but you also don’t want the water to puddle. Newly seeded areas need to be watered once deeply, and then water as often as needed to keep the soil moist. Do not over-water. You’ll want to watch for areas that dry out first. Some spots in your lawn will show signs of drought stress first so use them as a guide to determine when you should water. These areas would include areas near paved drives, streets, walks, Compacted areas (foot traffic) or slopes.